Coup Blimey

It's probably not news elsewhere, but Thailand has got itself into a bit of a constitutional crisis. The prime minister's called a snap election for Sunday, but it's being boycotted by other parties. Massive demonstations, calling for his resignation, are growing on daily basis, but he's refusing to budge. And given the election is now a one-party race, it won't provide any answers. Many hope the King will step in, others are suggesting the military might take action. Having experienced 20 coups since the advent of democracy in 1932, it's difficult to predict what may happen...

Bungalow on the River Kwai

Making a splash

In our final travels, Jules and I head West. Kanchanaburi district is awash with National Parks; in one, we rent a floating bungalow for a few days. Thais love being on the water, and we are somewhat bemused by the variety of craft that float past us. First pleasure boats, and then houses, restaurants, karaoke bars, nightclubs and entire hotels drift by in a bizarre slowly-shifting tableau. We borrow some lifejackets and spend happy hours bobbing along through the Park.
On a more sombre note, we learn of some of the horrors that made the River Kwai, and its Bridge, so infamous. At Hellfire Pass, where British and Aussie POWs hacked a 60-foot deep railway cutting through solid rock by hand, just wondering around in the 40° heat was enough for us. Working an 18-hour day with a pickaxe on starvation rations is beyond imagining.

Take me to the Beach

Old Man o' the Sea

It was a real wrench to leave our new friends in Phrao, but if we don't leave now, we never will. Next stop is the beach, and because it's the weekend, Sara is happily able to join us (it's a bummer having a job, eh?). Koh Samed's your classic Thai island. White sand, clear water, cheap beer.
Even better, getting there involves a trip on the world's longest bridge (Bang Na Expressway, 60km long), which nobody else seems to get excited about.

Village People

Altogether now...

And so a week passes in Phrao. We're staying with one of our new-found friends, and she keeps us busy, laying some bricks, updating her website, learning some Thai cooking, and going out to karaoke every night! Yep, that's right, karaoke is big in the North, and we put on some pretty dreadful performances. Main problem is that the selection of English music is limited, and to be honest, even one rendition of Country Roads or Karma Chameleon is too many...

Going out with a Bang

Cremation

It's Sunday, and the climax of the festival as the cremation takes place. We've helped out with our own carefully wrapped firewood bundles, and the sombre moment of lighting the fire arrives. But no! It appears Giles has been put in charge of the bonfire, and a truly hair-raising bout of pyromania ensues. The monk's not going quietly, as rockets zip over the crowd, firecrackers snap all over the place, and artillery shells explode within the flames. But after a while, the music relaxes, the fireworks are spent, and Jules and I are both captured by the serenity of the experience.

Making Friends

Open roads

Our grand tour of the North starts well, with some stunning travels through the beautiful and remote mountain scenery of the Burmese border region. Being by now an experienced biker, I feel the thrill of the long sweeping bends, marvel at the well-made roads, and relish the complete absence of other vehicles.
But our travels come to an abrupt halt in the backwater town of Phrao. As tourists, we're an oddity, and within 24 hours, the warmth and joy of some locals has us hooked. We get involved in village life, starting with the cremation of their head monk - a truly auspicious event, involving 3 days of festivities. Our initial fears of sombre Buddhist chanting are soon allayed, as the music starts up, the dancing girls get on stage, the hot air balloons get lit, and the fireworks are dropped amongst the crowd.

Jules' Rules

My great travel buddy Jules turns up for a month, and we set off to explore Thailand. The usual ground rules apply - avoid anywhere of any potential tourist interest, and you're bound to discover something worthwhile. We head North, and getting off the beaten track means we need to get on some motorbikes. So I get a crash course on how to ride a bike. And it's a crash course in every sense as I fail to grasp the physics of doing a U-turn on loose gravel. But it's only my pride that's dented, so off we venture...